Did you know that when high-profile prosecutor Kelly Siegler prosecuted Susan Wright for stabbing her husband Jeff Wright, she had to get permission t
Did you know that when high-profile prosecutor Kelly Siegler prosecuted Susan Wright for stabbing her husband Jeff Wright, she had to get permission to wear pants? She needed to wear pants in court for a demonstration for the jury. But the point is, she had to have permission to wear pants.
When Barack Obama ran for office around 2007, Michelle Obama “broke new ground” by not always wearing stockings on the campaign trail. In a televised interview, she explained that because she is tall, it was a bother.
I felt so seen. I’m short and purchasing stockings that run by noon away, then trying to find the right brand that fits your skin tone was annoying! Stockings for work every day were a money pit.
We just don’t allow women enough space and freedom to speak openly about how confining and constricting this world can be on us.
Throughout history, women’s fashion has been shaped, constrained, and policed by societal norms, legal mandates, and cultural expectations designed to control their appearance, their movements, behaviors, and very identities.
For Black women, these restrictions have been doubly cruel, infused with racialized standards of beauty and decorum meant to erase identity and humanity. Let’s walk through the corridors of history, examining the exhaustive list of fashion restrictions placed on women and girls worldwide, with a spotlight on the layers of oppression faced by Black women and girls.
Ancient and Medieval Periods
Ancient Rome (215 BCE):
The Lex Oppia law dictated that women could not wear more than half an ounce of gold and forbade them from wearing multi-colored garments. This law was meant to curb what was seen as extravagance and vanity among women, a narrative designed to shame women for desiring beauty and expression.Ancient Rome (circa 200 BCE):
Married women were required to wear a floor-length garment called the ‘stola,’ meant to signify modesty and distinguish them from men and unmarried women. A woman caught wearing a toga, which was associated with men, could be labeled promiscuous or even accused of prostitution, branding her morality by her attire.Medieval Europe (13th Century):
Sumptuary laws dictated clothing according to class and gender, ensuring that women were marked by their husbands’ social status. Luxurious fabrics, vibrant colors, and accessories were forbidden for women deemed “lower class.” These laws weren’t just about fabric—they were about making sure women knew their place.Late Roman Empire:
Entertainers like mimes and prostitutes were prohibited from dressing like nuns, cementing rigid notions of morality and respectability linked directly to women’s clothing. Society’s judgment was less about the woman and more about the fabric on her body.
Renaissance and Early Modern Periods
Italy (15th-16th Century):
In cities like Genoa, Milan, and Rome, women were forbidden from wearing low necklines or extravagant accessories, supposedly to maintain moral order. But whose morality were they protecting? Not the women’s, certainly.Scotland (1429):
Social rank dictated who could wear what. Women of certain ranks were banned from wearing silk or specific types of fur. Yet again, a woman’s identity was dictated by her father’s or husband’s social standing.
18th and 19th Centuries
Victorian Era (19th Century):
Women were expected to wear restrictive corsets, layers of petticoats, and high-necked dresses, which impaired mobility and reinforced traditional gender roles. It wasn’t just fashion; it was control—constraining women’s bodies to fit into neat, acceptable molds.Victorian Dress Reform Movement (Mid-Late 19th Century):
Brave women dared to question the suffocating norms, advocating for more practical and comfortable clothing. The backlash was swift and severe, as society feared what women’s freedom of movement—and expression—might bring.
20th Century
United States (Early 1900s):
Trousers were off-limits for women. To wear pants was to rebel, to question the very fabric of a patriarchal society that assigned masculinity to comfort and practicality.United States (1960s):
School dress codes mandated skirts or dresses, barring girls from the ease and freedom of movement that pants provided. Their growing, exploring bodies were policed before they even understood the injustice of it.United States (1970s):
Professional dress codes demanded skirts or dresses, even at the White House. Women were expected to look a certain way to be deemed “professional,” a euphemism for compliant and non-threatening.France (1800-2013):
Women couldn’t legally wear trousers in Paris without police permission. Although largely unenforced in later years, the law remained until 2013—a stark reminder of how slow the world is to release its grip on women’s bodies.
Restrictions on Black Women and Girls
Pressure to Conform to Eurocentric Beauty Standards:
Black women have long been coerced into conforming to Eurocentric standards of beauty. This meant straightening hair through painful chemical relaxers or heat-styling, which were marketed as essential for social acceptance, professionalism, and safety. In the workplace, in schools, and even in courts of law, Black women were told that their natural hair was “unprofessional,” “untidy,” or “distracting.” It was never just about hair—it was about assimilation, about making Black women smaller and more palatable.Military Restrictions:
In the U.S. military, Black women faced specific hair regulations that targeted natural hairstyles. Braids, locs, and twists were deemed “unprofessional” or “unkempt,” effectively banning the very styles that protect natural Black hair from damage. It wasn’t until public outcry and advocacy that some restrictions were lifted in 2014 and 2017. But the message was clear: To serve your country, you must erase parts of yourself.The Crown Act (Ongoing):
Even now, Black women continue to fight for the right to wear their hair in its natural state without facing discrimination. The Crown Act, passed in several U.S. states, seeks to end race-based hair discrimination, highlighting that even today, Black women’s bodies—and identities—are legislated and policed.
Policing Girls’ Bodies in Schools
Dress Codes and Male Gaze Justification:
School dress codes have historically targeted girls, imposing restrictions on clothing deemed “distracting,” such as tank tops, short skirts, or leggings. Perhaps the most disturbing rationale has been the need to avoid “enticing male teachers.” Let’s be real—what society truly fears is the power of girls discovering their own identities. Instead of addressing inappropriate behavior from adults, the blame is shifted to girls’ bodies, sexualizing them before they even understand the implications.These codes teach girls from a young age that they are responsible for how others react to their bodies, placing the burden of adult male gaze on children. This is about controlling girls’ self-expression, limiting their comfort, and confining them to narrow definitions of “acceptable” femininity.
Modern Dress Codes and Societal Expectations
Workplace Attire:
Many industries still require women to wear skirts, dresses, or high heels, enforcing outdated standards that value appearance over comfort and capability.Sports Uniforms:
Female athletes are subjected to rules requiring revealing attire, like bikinis in beach volleyball, while their male counterparts wear more practical clothing. It’s about showcasing women’s bodies for consumption rather than enhancing their performance.
The Legacy of Control
This is about more than clothing. It’s about power—who has it and who doesn’t. It’s about autonomy over our own bodies. Every stitch, every hemline, every rule has been about defining a woman’s place in society, about boxing her in.
For Black women and girls, the layers are even deeper, woven with threads of racism, colorism, and sexism. From enslaved women whose dress was used to signify their bondage, to modern-day Black women who face discrimination for embracing their natural hair, the policing of Black womanhood is an ongoing battle.
This is about reclaiming the narrative. About honoring our mothers and grandmothers who endured and resisted. About teaching our daughters that they are enough, just as they are. Our bodies are ours—our hair, our clothing, our choices. And it’s about damn time the world understood that.
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